Hey gents,

I’m gonna keep it short and sweet this week with this little gym-inspired tip.

Don’t be afraid to show those ankles.

There, I said it. Let’s stop wearing these sad excuses for socks, and start putting on the real deal, something called a “no-show sock”.

First thing’s first, make sure you’re only wearing cotton athletic socks with casual sneakers, or when you’re actually working out or being athletic. We’ve discussed this already, as I’m sure you remember.

If you’re over the age of 12, the no-show sock is the only athletic sock you should consider. No arguing!

And no, not ankle socks, not mid-calf socks. If you’re gonna get all 80s with the striped calf-length tube socks, fine, but you better be so hip you can actually pull that off. And please, no slouch socks. (Had to be said… just in case.)

Don’t be fooled by the socks that are marketed as “ankle socks”. What you really want is a sock that hits below the ankle bone, so it’s mostly hidden by the shoe. Ankle socks cover the ankles, which are still too high.

Just look at the above image. The two on the left with the green checks? Those are no-shows. The two on the right, with the Xs? Ankle socks.

“lolwut, why does it matter?”

It’s a matter of aesthetics. Sneakers with no-show socks just look better, plain and simple. Sometimes you don’t need a sartorially-inspired reason.

Seriously, bro?

You don’t want floppy sock garters bunching around your ankles, and even those “ankle socks” that cover the ankle bone look terrible. Just trust me and pick up a couple pairs of no-show socks. This should get you started.

Are they slipping down over your heel when you walk? Either pull them up higher so when you slip your shoe on, the sock naturally slides into place, or find another brand. I’ve noticed some brands just don’t have supportive enough elastic in their socks.

Additional tip that I condone

Like the sockless look with your brogues, but hate the idea of sweating and stinking up your good leather shoes? Black no-show socks can work. You may have to wear them a bit lower, and they may peek out a bit, but that’s okay. That’s certainly more acceptable than a guy wearing footies.

Something I DO NOT condone

Speaking of footies (this shouldn’t even be a topic of conversation), I’ve heard of guys using women’s footies because they don’t want socks to show when wearing boat shoes.

It works, in theory, but what IF you had to take your shoes off in public? Just… what if.

Don’t wear them. If you can’t handle sockless, then don’t do it at all.

There you go, gents. My quick tip for the week.

Busy behind the scenes

Apologies if I haven’t been publishing as much or answering emails as quickly as I usually do. I’ve been working on some delicious stuff behind the scenes and there just isn’t enough time in the day.

I know I’ve mentioned this in the past, but I’m adding the final touches on the first EG manual, tentatively titled “The Effortless Guide to Graduating Your Style”. This will be a useful resource for guys looking to build their wardrobe from the ground up. Together we’ll assess your current wardrobe, figure out what needs to go and what’s worth keeping, and then help you slowly add classic, quality pieces meant to last years.

This guide is perfect for any man looking for a solid wardrobe foundation, but especially helpful to newly-minted college grads and dudes entering the job market, even guys who are in the middle of a career transition and hoping to polish their appearance in addition to their résumés.

If this sounds like you, make sure to sign up for updates, as I’ll be making this available to those on the EG list first (and at a special price). Sign up for updates by clicking here (and don’t worry, I hate SPAM in my inbox as much as you, so I won’t waste your time).

K (the gf) and I have also been hard at work on the new Fifth&Brannan collection. If you’re new to EG (welcome to the large wave of readers that have signed up lately), I co-founded a men’s clothing label with the girlfriend, called Fifth&Brannan. There have been some delays on the manufacturing / production end, but we’re gently nudging them along so we can finally release.

First up will be our new line of shirting, followed up by made-to-order chinos and trouser denim in the coming weeks, and also a new selection of ties, and possibly even a bow tie.

We’re super proud of this collection, and we’d love for you to own a 5&B piece. Stay on top of all the release dates by joining the 5&B fam. How do you join, you ask? Just click right here.

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Busy busy. Until next time!

photo credit (top to bottom): amazon.com, riggertrainlad via flickr, zappos.com

In all honesty, I’m not a big spender. I definitely don’t splurge very often, either (not on clothes, anyway). I always see things I want and like, but I’ve conditioned myself for so long to hold off hold off HOLDOFF… until I’m certain it’s something I absolutely want.

See, when you splurge on an item, it’s more about desire than necessity.

No one NEEDS Tom Ford suits when there’s a Men’s Wearhouse (bleh) down the street. You don’t NEED a pair of $1600 John Lobb lace-ups to cover your feet, or a $7k Panerai just to figure out the time.

These items are about desire: for history, quality, a story, a brand name. We’re way past utility when there’s $7k on your wrist.

I’m not saying this desire is a bad thing, rather, how do we strike a balance between affordability and luxury?

The reason I ask this is because as we get older, our tastes evolve (and our incomes rise), and we start to desire other, better things. Why take your significant other to McDonald’s when you can afford dinner at Morton’s or BLT, right?

But, if we gave into our desires for the biggest, baddest, most awesome things all the time, well, we’d have lots of cool shit but no cash in our pockets.

How do we choose what’s worth the extra coin, and what we should pass on (or at least substitute for a more affordable alternative)?

Determining if your desired item is splurge-worthy

Let me preface all this by saying that if you’re in the minority of folks who can easily practice delayed gratification, I tip my hat to you.

Controlling spending is difficult, and if you ever find yourself on that slippery slope of buying things (usually on credit) before you make the money… be careful with that ish, my friends.

Concerns about style, looking good, and having cool things don’t matter when you’re drowning in debt. Get your finance game straight before buying anything that isn’t a necessity to live (like rent, or food).

Even better, pare down, buy quality, understand the principles of wardrobe minimalism and adopting a personal uniform, and your new habits will justify the splurges you give into every now and again.

So this is my rough three-point checklist when I’m considering a splurge-worthy purchase. Try asking yourself these things next time:

Have I been looking at it forever?

• Do you visit the store all the time?
• Have you tried it on more times than you can remember?
• Are you always looking at the product page online, so much so that it’s the first result in your browser’s history when you type the first letter of the URL?
• Can you recite the product description listed on the site by heart?
• Do product shots make appearances in your dreams?

If you’re thinking of a particular item while answering “yes!” to these questions, perhaps this is something you really should buy.

Do I have the means to purchase it?

Like I mentioned earlier, I’m not talking about credit cards. That’s cheating.

If you’re a smart man, you’ll save up the cash before buying it. There’s no true joy in buying something on credit… it may feel good at the time, but that’s just the deceptive high of instant gratification.

Put away $100-200 (or whatever you can set aside) every month until you can afford it, then go buy it with that cash. The feeling of finally having that item in your possession after saving for it is sweeeet. You know what’s even sweeter? A $0 balance on that credit card.

Plus, you also get a chance to practice delayed gratification by saving for something instead of taking the easy way out and using the credit card. Delayed gratification is monumentally important, especially considering the type of debt people find themselves in nowadays. SO not worth it for a new pair of shoes or a dope jacket.

Do I REALLY want it?

Be sure you really want it. This is probably a bigger, pricier purchase, or else you wouldn’t have been debating over it for so long. Make sure you really want this thing, and know your reasons why.

Quick test: When you find this potentially splurge-worthy item, simply walk away from it and go about your day (or X out of your browser window). The next day, are you still thinking about that item? Do you revisit the store just to take a gander one more time?

A few days later, are you still daydreaming about it, checking stock online, looking at product photos?

That’s when you know you really, really want something. If you can step away from it and give the chemicals in your brain a chance to simmer down, and you still find yourself wishing you had it, then you know it’s not a spur-of-the-moment impulse buy.

The Not Quick At All test: Do you still want said item after saving for it for weeks, potentially months? If you’ve saved the money and you still want the damn thing, it’s DEFINITELY meant to be yours.

If you could live without, since you’ve done so for this long… well, good thing you didn’t buy that item on credit, knawmeen?

Will this splurge-worthy item eventually become an heirloom you pass on? Is it something you can use every day? Do you get giddy with excitement every time you’re near it? You should be passionate about it if you’re gonna buy it, so know your reasons.

Never buy something because it’s what everyone else wants, or to be a show-off, or to put yourself on display like a damn peacock. Purchasing something of luxury shouldn’t be done for these purposes.

Luxury should be personal, intimate. Keep it to yourself and enjoy the outstanding quality quietly, otherwise you look like a douchebag showoff.

BOOM. There’s your quick three-question mini test. Hopefully this saves you from several regretful purchases you otherwise might have made in 2012.

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Speaking of splurge-worthy, K and I are gearing up to release our second collection at Fifth&Brannan. We’ll be releasing the collection in phases. If you were hoping for everything all at once, sorry to disappoint… but that’s okay! A controlled drip is better than a tsunami of awesomeness. Wouldn’t want you to pass out from sheer delight, or anything.

Best way to stay on top of the 5&B goodness that’s about to grace your screens in early February? Sign up on our mailing list. We’ll make it worth your while, I promise. Click here to get on the list.

If you’re so inclined, feel free to chat with us on Twitter, or be buddies with us on Facebook. It’s all the rage these days.

Photo credit: HO/AFP/Getty Images, tomford.com

Hey gents,

I talk a lot about brown dress shoes… a lot. I’m a big fan of them over your typical black pair (because black is mostly uninteresting, unless you find the right pair).

On top of that, guys default to black dress shoes. Guys need to stop settling for “default” choices and saying to themselves, “Meh, good enough.” It’s important to be a little daring, step out of your comfort zone, and do things the rest of your peers are not doing.

So brown leather dress shoes are a step in the right direction.

But, to those still stepping up their game, what constitutes a GOOD pair of brown leather dress shoes? Can you just pick any pair that looks brown, and looks leathery? What qualifies as the RIGHT pair of brown shoes?

Well, what better way to explain than with pictures, am I right?

The WRONG pair of brown “dress shoes”

Here’s what you’re looking for… so you can avoid them. I say “dress shoes” because these aren’t really what I had in mind when I told you to go out and get a great pair of shoes.

I only pointed out a few things here, but you get the general idea. If you see any of these elements on a pair of shoes you’re considering, it’s best to back away slowly, turn around, and run.

The RIGHT pair of brown leather dress shoes

And here’s a good example of the kind of brown leather dress shoes you should look for when purchasing your first (or second, or third) pair.

These are the Fifth Avenue model by Allen Edmonds via Zappos. The characteristics I pointed out above are what you want to look for the next time you’re on the hunt.

Things like a narrow, sexy silhouette, leather upper and outsole, classic stitching, broguing (if you like it, i certainly do), the right heel height, and a Goodyear welt (the top-notch hand sewn construction, attaching the sole to the upper part of the shoe).

This particular model (and shoe brand) is expensive, sure. Not everyone can afford $325 shoes. But if you were going to own one pair for years and years, Allen Edmonds is one of the brands you want to explore.

Not only are they of extreme quality, they look damn sexy, they’re made in the US, and they even offer a recrafting service for all their shoes. For a fraction of the cost of a new pair, you can send your AEs in and have them resoled and cleaned up. After a few weeks, you’ll get your shoes back, looking better than ever.

Why not just buy a new pair? Because things look better with age, if they’re built to age well. Most cheap shoes aren’t meant to be worn years and years. Shoes like Allen Edmonds are (that’s why they offer a recrafting service in the first place… I’ve seen pairs that are 20+ years old looking as good as ever).

Plus, here at EG, we’re all about identifying and shopping for quality items, things that last, and using them for years. Why buy a $50 pair of “dress shoes” that last one year before the sole comes unglued and the “leather” starts to flake, rendering them completely unwearable?

This applies to dress shoes at any price point

But hey, I still hear ya. Even I can’t plop down four bills every time I want a nice pair of shoes. If this sounds like you, trust me, this isn’t about always spending top dollar.

The important takeaway from this is to look for these specific characteristics when you’re out buying shoes. Stay away from the WRONG pairs, and find shoes that resemble the RIGHT pair.

Boom! That’s it.

Questions?

Unsure about certain parts of the right pair, or why a certain wrong pair are wrong? Let’s hear it in the comments below.

ps — crazy, EG is almost at 1000 likes on Facebook! When did that happen? If you want to help us reach 1000 (not that numbers matter, but it’s just kinda cool to see), like us on Facebook here.

The benefit to you is that when we have a bigger community on FB, we can get into more detailed discussions about things and field opinions and thoughts from everyone else in the community. Plus, the conversation is better on there (and it’s easy to reach me). So like EG!

photos via zappos

The Lean Wardrobe is an ongoing series of articles exploring the ideas and philosophies behind curating a lean wardrobe… Things like cleaning out whats unnecessary, buying only what you’ll use, spending on things that are worth it, etc.

If you’re interested in creating a lean, mean closet with only stuff you love to wear (while getting rid of the crap that’s taking up space) you should subscribe to Effortless Gent (this will open in a new window).

Hey gents,

I’m a big proponent of understanding basic style rules, and then bending those rules (maybe even breaking a couple) to make them your own. Doing so will help you create a personal style that’s completely yours.

The idea of high / low style isn’t a new thing, but if you haven’t yet incorporated the idea of it into your daily life, why not?

High/low style (or high-low, whatever) is this general idea of combining high-fashion, tailored, and custom pieces with more casual, everyday pieces. Alternatively, the combining of the higher-priced items in your closet with your less expensive items.

Most people have outfits in mind for certain occasions. So, jeans and a t-shirt for going to the store, suit for work or a wedding, etc.

The idea behind high / low style is blurring the lines (something else I’m a big proponent of) so you take on a more casual dressy look, or a dressy casual look. Never too overdressed for any occasion, but never underdressed either.

Probably the most basic high / low style mixture out there? Denim with a sport coat. Looks great, classes up the denim. Throw on some great leather shoes and in 95% of situations, you’d be dressed appropriately.

Waistcoat, denim, dress shirt, sneakers. BOOM.

Some other ideas? A waistcoat and dress shirt with denim and sneakers, suiting trousers with a simple, fitted sweatshirt. Suiting trousers with sneakers and a thick cardigan sweater.

Think mixing high and low can’t look good? It sure can. Remember, if everything fits well, you’ll have a much easier time putting things together and making sure your look is polished.

Other reasons you may want to use high/low to your advantage:

Perfect way to utilize both casual / dressier clothing in your closet

If you’re like most dudes, the suit you bought and had tailored sits in your closet for most of the year, only seeing the light of day when a special occasion arises.

You need to make use of that suit more often. Break it up and use parts of it throughout the week. Throw on your suit jacket with your favorite pair of denim. Wear the trousers with a sweater and some sneakers. Mixing a suit in with other, more casual pieces, keeps shit interesting, and adds another dimension of awesomeness to your everyday style.

Here’s a great article (with images) from Dan T over at The Style Blogger, where he shows five different ways you can wear individual pieces from a double breasted suit.

Lets you be more creative with your combos

It’s easy to get into a routine with your clothing. And there’s nothing wrong with a uniform, but if you’re still figuring out what defines your personal style, you don’t want to get stuck early on. You want to experiment and try as many things as possible, so you can land upon something that’s uniquely your own.

Word?

Wondering if you can pair X with Y? Not sure how to pull off slim trousers with anything but the suit jacket it came with? Let’s hear it in the comments below.

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By the way, are you following Fifth&Brannan?

If not, you totally should be. We’re putting the final touches on our next collection, and we’re looking to release in early February. Stay updated by joining the 5&B fam and hitting up our Facebook page.

Pairing socks with shoes and the rest of the outfit is something I haven’t thought about for a while because it comes naturally. But, I understand there are a bunch of guys still unsure about which socks to choose when figuring out what to wear for the day.

Some questions you may have: Do I match them to my shoes or my pants? What about my shirt, can I match my socks to that? Should my socks match my underwear? Since my belt and shoes match, should I match my socks to those?

Okay, I was exaggerating a little (hopefully none of you are going out of your way to match your underwear), but some of those questions are valid, and you may find yourself asking them once in a while.

(Side note, I despise the idea of “matching” your socks to anything, and you’ll see what I mean by the end of this article.)

So, if you’re a fan of these Back to Basics articles, you might find this one pretty useful.

Looking for the full-sized version? (right click, Open in New Tab)

So here’s a quick summary:

• Athletic socks (white and black no-show socks, first sock column) for athletic shoes / casual sneakers only
• “Dress socks” (everything from the second sock column, on) for every shoe other than athletic shoes
• No thin / fine dress socks for athletic shoes
• No white / black athletic socks for dress shoes
• color tip: Be bold! Don’t worry about matching pants to socks
• color tip: Pair socks with colors in your outfit, be a little experimental
• fabric tip: Cotton and cotton blend striped and patterned socks for casual sneakers, casual or dressier leather shoes
• fabric tip: Thicker cotton and wool varieties for casual leather shoes
• fabric tip: Fine wool blend and cashmere dress socks for leather dress shoes

See what I did there? There’s absolutely no matching involved between socks and shoes. It’s about pairing socks with colors complementary to the rest of your outfit.

The “Match your pants to your socks” Rule

“But, B, isn’t there a rule that says you should always match (ugh) your socks to your pants? Black pants, black socks? Navy pants, navy socks? Brown pants, brown socks?”

This rule exists 1.) to give the simple-minded, “no gray area” type of guy guidelines to follow, and 2.) because visually, it elongates the leg (a good thing), whereas when you’re matching socks to shoes, it doesn’t do that.

This isn’t a bad rule to follow. In many cases, it’s sufficient.

However, you read the Effortless Gent. You’re not a simple-minded guy, and you know that the gray area most guys avoid is where you can have lots of fun, and where your personal style is developed and defined.

I say forget about this rule. I never deliberately match my socks to my pants. Instead, pick awesome socks with colors that are complementary to whatever you’re wearing. Most of the time, guys don’t have a chance to be too loud or daring with their clothing, but socks are one place where you can have a little fun.

How do I pair my socks with my clothes?

If you’re unsure how to pair your colors together, you may have to think back to art class in elementary school, when the teacher taught you about color relationships. Those same rules still apply.

To keep it simple, you want your colors to be complementary. Which colors are complementary? Bust out your color wheel and choose two colors opposite each other. If that’s too rigid a rule, you basically want the colors to feel good together.

Here’s how to figure out what feels good together. Check out this site, which lists all the basic types of color pairings.

Don’t be afraid of color

I’m a big proponent of color. Most guys don’t wear enough. Most guys stick to blue jeans, black up top, black shoes. Holy effing boring!

I’m encouraging you to explore color as you develop and define your personal style. Color is super important and keeps things interesting. As a refresher, check out the Back to Basics article about color that looks best for your skin type.

Looking for color pairing inspiration? Look through this site’s archives, browse other men’s style sites, check out the menswear stream on Tumblr.

Hopefully this Back to Basics article and my pep talk about going above and beyond your basic black sock convinces you to experiment more in the new year.

Let’s talk more about it

Hope that helps!

Leave a comment below, or we can continue this conversation over at Facebook.

socks: Hanes, Corgi, Happy Socks, J.Crew // shoes: Nike, Keds, Sperry, Tod’s, Clarks, LL Bean, Alden // credit: photo, photo

Hey gents,

2011 was a foundational year for EG. At the beginning of 2011, we we’re still relatively small and unknown, continuing to build our audience and find our voice. Our subject matter has become a lot more focused as the year went on, and it seems our readership grew exponentially because of it.

Here’s an example. The last post of 2010 drew in 278 visits total. Contrast that with the last post in 2011, which brought in 1775 visitors. 24,851 people visited EG in the month of December 2011. 5,103 people checked out EG in the same month, exactly a year before. That’s some nice growth right there.

Of course I’m not using these examples to brag (because really, who cares about those numbers anyway), but more to say thanks. Thanks for spreading the word, for recommending EG to your friends, and for coming back several times a week, leaving insightful comments, and asking great questions.

I’m hoping that in 2012, we’ll grow to twice the size of our best 2011 numbers, reaching even more people, assisting more dudes in finding their own sense of style, and demystifying the whole process, regardless of how the media, trends, or peers tell them to dress.

Here are the essential articles of 2011

If you have to read anything from the past year, these would be it.

• Seven things guys overlook when caring for their clothes (on Primer Magazine)
• My take on style vs. fashion, the differences, and why you should care
• Back to Basics: Which shoes with which pair of pants?
• The one thing you need to do to set yourself apart from every other guy
• When to spend vs. when to save
• The evolution of fashion (or, why classic style is the best style)
• Three Fs to consider when shopping for new clothing
• The endorsement: One thing every man must have in his closet
• The break: How to choose the best pants length + how to tell your tailor
• Sartorial evaluation: How to be stylish in your 40s and beyond (yes, this still applies to you young cats)
• Back to Basics: Choosing a casual shoe
• Get Measured: the one tool you need to solve all your shopping woes
• Do it anyway: improving yourself and dealing with those who don’t understand

How did YOU do last year?

2011 was a foundational year for you also, if you were following along. My goal is to write insightful articles that are easy enough to implement, so you can take action right away. If you started reading a year ago and applied everything you learned, you’d be well on your way to developing a great sense of personal style with an understanding that goes far beyond the basics.

If this is you, I’d love to hear from you. Please let me know in the comments below how much progress you’ve made so far.

If you don’t feel you have as good a grasp on this just yet, don’t worry, this isn’t a race to the finish line anyway. It’s more like a gradual progression, learning and applying at your leisure.

Understanding the basics of color, fit, proportion, fabric, and texture can be understood pretty quickly. It’s the application and combination of all those things that take time. If you haven’t already, let this be the year you start.

Here’s to an awesome 2012.

I love the new year. I think of them like mile markers, helping me gauge what I’ve done versus what I had planned to do over the past twelve months.

Now that you’ve been along for the ride with us at EG, I encourage you to set some style goals for yourself as well. I’m sure most of you had goals you tried accomplishing this year, and there are probably some things you haven’t gotten to yet.

Things like finally clearing out your closet that’s stuffed with crap you no longer wear, or purchasing a navy suit so you can get your grown man on. Maybe there are some essential pieces you’ve been wanting to pick up but just haven’t yet.

Don’t worry, you’re not expected to do it all in one shot, so it’s okay if you haven’t even taken care of all the basics. In fact, I have some things I hope to take care of this year.

Here are a few of mine:

• Find an awesome gray wool puff vest for the colder months
• Pick up a gray flannel suit, two-button, single breasted, double vented
• Buy a few white / light blue oxfords (I’ll probably just snag a few of the new 5&B ones coming soon)
• Solidifying my personal uniform, something I’ve been working on for a while now
• and more, I’m sure, which I’ll figure out in the next week

What are yours?

Just like regular life goals, if you don’t commit to them in writing (or even better, in public) you’ll probably never get around to it.

I want to hear your style resolutions for the new year. What are you hoping to acquire? What changes are you looking to make?

Remember, establishing your personal style isn’t about picking the most expensive items, or having a warehouse-sized wardrobe to choose from every morning.

All you need are several key (interchangeable) pieces in your closet, mixed in with a few things you love that aren’t necessarily considered basic, but help to define your personal style.

Having trouble thinking of ideas? Check out Dappered.com’s suggestions from the beginning of 2011. This is a good place to start.

So let’s hear em below! Consider the comments section of this post a place to hold yourself publicly accountable. And if I can help in any way, let me know.

Till next time.

ps — you should join us on Facebook!

Hey gents,

Earlier today on Facebook, I came to the realization that EG’s two-year anniversary blew by, and I did nothing awesome or memorable to celebrate!

Kinda sad. So today marks the two-year, one-month anniversary of this site. Here’s the first post if you didn’t feel like digging through the archives.

Mostly, I just wanted to say thanks.

Thanks for reading, for your insightful comments and kind emails, and most of all, for trusting me with advice that you apply to your daily lives (which is really cool, by the way).

Two years ago I wasn’t sure of how this site would progress. I got plenty of questions from guy friends, asking me what to wear with a certain shirt or pair of pants, or what shoes go best with whatever they had on. This happened often enough that eventually, I figured that if my friends had these questions, other guys must as well. And so EG was born.

We have a pretty active readership here; it’s been great getting feedback from you guys and I encourage you to keep commenting, emailing, tweeting, etc., if you ever have questions or think of topics I can cover. I’ll do my best to continue writing (hopefully) informative, thought-provoking, slightly smart-assy (but all in good fun) articles that you can learn a bit from.

What to expect in 2012

Early in the new year, I’ll be releasing a guide for sale that will help you evaluate your closet, get rid of the non-essentials, and restock it with classic, long-lasting, interchangeable pieces, all at your own pace. Once you’re finished with the guide, you’ll be the best-dressed version of yourself you’ve ever been.

I’m super excited to release this, as I’ve been working on it for a while now. I’m confident this step-by-step guide will really help those who may have the motivation to change, but aren’t exactly sure where to start.

More on this later, but to make sure you don’t miss any updates, make sure to sign up for the email list (if you haven’t already).

Of course, I’ll continue the writing on this site, and if you ever have any topic suggestions or things you’d like to hear about, don’t hesitate to let me know through the comments, or in an email.

That’s all for now. Have a great holiday weekend with your families. Merry Christmas!

Quick tip for you guys: when you’re wearing a dress shirt without a tie, unbutton both the collar and the second button.

This is something I notice a lot. When guys let loose, they rip off that tie and unbutton the collar… and that’s it.

Don’t be afraid to unfasten one more button. Cmon, you can do it! I believe in you.

Why unfasten the two top buttons? Because if you only unfasten the collar, you look a tad stuffy, a bit closed up. You kinda look like you’re choking a little. Let that neck breathe!

Here are some common objections to undoing that second button:

My undershirt will show.

Okay, then wear a v-neck undershirt, or a deep v-neck undershirt if necessary. Or, grab an A-shirt. Whichever you decide to go with, they should all be heather grey, don’t forget.

I have a forest of chest hair that will be unleashed.

So? You’re a man, man. Let that rug of yours breathe. Nothing wrong with a little windswept chest hair.

If you’re still conscious of it, maybe you need to do some manscaping. Trim yourself with scissors, or grab a body hair wrangler and get to work! It’s okay if you need to tame your unwieldy body hairs. Your lady will love you for it.

I feel like Fabio if I have that many buttons unbuttoned.

Dude, be real. Unless you have a dress shirt with weirdly positioned buttons (or a majestic steed, or long flowing locks), you won’t look like Fabio. If anything, you’ll look less stuffy with one more button unbuttoned.

Two should be your max though, any more buttons unfastened and shit just gets weird.

Be aware that the position of the second button on a shirt depends on the shirtmaker. Some are positioned higher, while other shirts lower it a bit.

In any case, two buttons unfastened is the sweet spot when wearing a dress shirt with no tie.

That’s this week’s quick tip!

Are there any widely-accepted, yet potentially incorrect ways of wearing clothing that you wonder about? Feel free to leave these below; maybe we’ll use them in future quick tip articles.

Oh and, while you’re at it, why not join us on Facebook?

I recently started reading The Flinch, by Julien Smith. The basic idea is that we humans have this inclination to protect ourselves. This self-preservation, this flinch, is a defense mechanism meant to keep us alive and safe. It’s the flight in “fight or flight”.

The problem is that in our modern society, rarely are we humans put in a situation where we need to flinch. Rarely are we ever in THAT much danger, relatively speaking. We have longer lifespans, modern medicine, homes that shield us from the elements, the absence of dinosaurs and flesh-eating mammals roaming the streets.

Yet, we still flinch. We let these fears prevent us from doing awesome shit, making great change, and improving our lives.

That fear of speaking in public? Of doing a Skype call with someone you haven’t yet met? Of going up to unfamiliar yet attractive strangers in bars? Of losing weight? Of dropping bad habits?

That fear, that’s the flinch.

What does this have to do with personal style?

Glad you asked.

I get a lot of emails and comments that allude to this issue of insecurity. They say things like “I can’t dress like that with my group of friends,” or “Not sure what my girlfriend would think if I suddenly started wearing blazers and nice shoes.”

These comments are clear indicators of the fear in these gents’ minds when it comes to change… and this fear prevents great change from happening.

The flinch.

In reality though, if you REALLY think about it, what do you have to fear when trying to improve yourself? At the most, one or two jeers (from poorly-dressed peers, naturally), maybe a couple confused looks, some questions based on curiosity (“Whoa, when did you start dressing like that?”)… but I’m confident that if you keep at it, most of the reactions you receive will be positive, uplifting, and supportive.

The first step is pressing on despite any fears you might have.

Here are some common issues and internal questions that tend to come up

What will my friends / loved ones think?

You’re likely to encounter one of three reactions.

One: Negative, either of the “Eww, I don’t like your new look,” or “Who do you think you are?” variety.

I don’t understand either, particularly the latter. Since when is it bad to want to improve in every aspect of your life, especially the most outward-facing one, your appearance? And the former is usually said by people who have little or no knowledge of good style, so how much weight do their opinions really hold?

Two: Ambivalence, unsure of what to think or how to react. They’re not negative, but not necessarily positive either. These people will come around, if you keep evolving, learning, and doing your best.

Think about it. It’s a drastic change to go from ripped, faded jeans and dingy tees, to dark denim and button ups. People won’t know how to react when they see you. So those who are unsure but mostly okay with it will come around and turn into supporters eventually, trust me.

Three: Positive, the ones who are like “Hell yeah! you look great!” are the folks you want to keep around. Why? Well, for support, and because it’s good to keep positive peeps around you when you’re making an effort to do things differently.

Who gives a crap?

Side note: When I first started writing this, my first inclination was to proclaim, “Who gives a crap what people think? Even your closest loved ones? If they hate, then forget about em.”

I still believe this, don’t get me wrong. If they’re truly your friends or loved ones and care about you, they’d be supportive of you no matter what, especially if the changes you’re making in your life are for the better.

But, I know this is easier said than done; every situation is different, and dynamics can vary drastically. So the above is my more thought-out answer. If you’re more pragmatic and no-nonsense like me, you can go with the “Who gives a crap?” answer.

Can I really pull off a new look?

Dude, of course you can. The toughest thing to get over is that feeling of being overwhelmed.

Take your time; evolving your style and improving yourself isn’t a Sunday afternoon project, complete in a couple hours. It takes commitment, true interest, and the desire to learn and make changes where necessary.

It also takes an open mind, because a lot of the things you believed to be true about how to wear clothes will be challenged. More times than not, you’ll realize you were wrong all along.

I don’t know what I’m doing.

Good thing you found this site then, right? Like I just mentioned, self-improvement (not just in style, but in every aspect of your life) is a marathon and takes consistent action to see any results. Just keep learning and practicing and trying and doing. Ask lots of questions, make decisions, and figure out what you like.

There are too many options. How do I know where to start?

You’ll know where to start once you know where to start. That sounds super vague, but if you keep learning and reading and going to stores and trying stuff on, you’ll easily learn what fits and what doesn’t, what constitutes well-made versus shoddily constructed, etc.

I’ll tell you one thing, every man needs a great pair of denim.

Once you’re ready to start making some good purchases, make sure you consider these things.

There are too many options. Who do I listen to?

Well, me, for one. Though to be honest you’re doing yourself a great disservice by listening to me only. There are a bunch of great writers / bloggers who are super knowledgeable about men’s style, and you can learn a lot from each of them.

Here are some of my favorites, ranging from basic style advice to more advanced topics and ideas.

• Primer Magazine
• Dappered
• Real Men Real Style
• Art of Manliness
• Suits+Boots
• Ethan Desu
• Street Etiquette
• The Silentist
• This Fits
• Valet
• You Have Broken the Internet
• Die, Workwear!

Ultimately, you dress for you

Sure, part of your motivation to dress better is to impress so-and-so who’s caught your eye, or maybe because your significant other gives you dirty looks every time you leave the house and you’re starting to feel her deep, seething resentment.

Maybe mommy and daddy are treating you like a child still, and putting on a collared shirt and ironed chinos might get you more respect and adult-like treatment (you’re still five years old in their eyes, and probably always will be).

What it really comes down to is this: you need to dress better for YOUR own good.

If you’re in this deep, reading practically every article on this site, learning as much as you can about menswear, quality clothing, where to buy what, buying less but buying better, then your primary motivation should be to improve your life and style and appearance because YOU want to.

Impressing others and gaining approval as a source of motivation only lasts for so long. Eventually, that drive fades, or you lose interest in the other person, or you stop caring about what others think.

The only thing that will bring long-lasting change is the desire for constant self-improvement and the motivation to present yourself better.

Make sense?

What’s holding you back?

I’m sure a few of you can relate on some level. What are your hang-ups? What’s holding you back from experimenting or discovering your own personal style and taste?

Is it the feeling of overwhelm? Not knowing where to start? Not sure who to trust? Or maybe you just need more time to read, absorb, and learn?

Let’s hear it down below in the comments. I’m curious and maybe I can help.

ps — if you have a minute, please like Effortless Gent and Fifth&Brannan on Facebook, wouldja? You rock.