All this talk about a man’s essential wardrobe and what real, down-to-earth guys need in their closets can be a little overwhelming for most dudes. You know why? Most of us don’t like shopping. Sure, there are a small subset of us who do, but in general, dudes don’t want to do it.

So, let’s just say you only make one single purchase all year. Just ONE singular item. What should that thing be?

Roy Denim, Oakland, CA

A pair of dark denim. Straight leg, well fitting, un-whiskered, non-faded, dark wash denim.

If you STILL don’t have a pair of dark, inky blue denim with no pre-fabricated creasing or faded wash, shame on you! If you’re curious, this is one of the pairs I have (and the kind I’m suggesting you pick up).

Why is it so important for every guy to have at least one pair?

1.) It’s the ultimate in versatility

You can wear it in almost any social situation. Going grocery shopping? throw on a polo and some desert boots, and BAM, perfect casual grocery-shopping outfit. Heading to a nice bar with the lady friend? Add a pressed button up, a sport coat, and some brogues, and you’re good!

2.) You look like a grown-up

Faded washes, whiskering, and that whole pre-worn style is really young looking. It’s very American Eagle. Dark denim just takes your whole outfit up ten notches, especially when you pick the right fit.

3.) You avoid the dad jeans look

Sure, this has a lot to do with fit as well, but that light wash color just screams Dad Jeans. Or it screams high school, if you go the other extreme, fit wise (tight and super skinny). With dark denim, you don’t have to worry about that (to the right).

4.) They look great dressed up

Touched upon this in #1, but dark denim is a great substitute for trousers. You can look really sharp in a well-fitting pair. In fact, it’s become sort of my default if I need to get dressed quickly and nicely. I throw on a Fifth&Brannan button-up, sport coat, sometimes a tie, a great pair of shoes, and I’m out the door in like 12 minutes.

5.) They’re available at a variety of price points

So really, you have no excuse. If you go the selvedge route, you will be shopping at a higher price point, but you don’t have to buy selvedge to score a great pair in the same wash. Check out Levi’s, J.Crew, or Lands’ End Canvas (resin rinse) for some options at various price points.

How to pick and take care of your dark wash denim (and other things to remember)

Basic rule, aka The best rule to follow

Wear it a lot, and barely wash it. The denim stays dark and conforms nicely to your body. Wash it only when you absolutely must (rolling through mud, getting stuck in a port-a-potty that was thrown down a hill, after eating a lot of beans, etc).

Mind the rise

This is a fit issue, and you should pay attention to this no matter what kind of bottoms you’re buying. I touched upon rise in this article (Fit > pants). If you have other questions about this, feel free to ask in the comments.

Consider leg and seat room

You want to make sure you pick a slim (not skinny) pair. For a lot of you bootcut-wearers, you’re gonna think a straight leg pair feels like spandex around your calves, but trust me, straight leg looks better. Wear em for a while and eventually you’ll get used to them (and good Lord, get rid of your bootcuts).

You want the seat of your pants to hug your ass gently and lovingly, but not squeeze it to where it looks like your butt’s suffocating. Check out the Bonobos image in the left sidebar, that’ll give you a good idea of how your pants should fit in the seat.

You’re gonna crock

Crocking refers to the dye rubbing off on lighter-colored fabric. It happens, and it happens a lot. So before you hop into your Ferrari with the cream-colored seats, make sure you lay down a towel so you don’t stain the hand-stitched leather.

Or, more realistically, if you’re wearing light-colored canvas shoes or desert boots, better cuff em up once or twice, so the dye doesn’t transfer.

Bottom line

This weekend, pick up a pair of dark denim. It will change your life and grow up your style by at LEAST 6700%.

I know there are a bunch of you denim connoisseurs out there. What can you teach the class about picking the right fit / type of dark denim? Let’s hear your opinions in the comments below.

Slim and skinny jeans are what’s hot right now, apparently. The thing is, not many of us can squeeze our meaty trunks into skinny fit denim. Not every guy is a 29×32, and not every guy has slender bird legs, including myself.

Rather than force yourself to accept eternal discomfort in an attempt to wear the “in” fit right now, EG suggests you make choices that are suitable to your body type, and find fits that complement your bod.

The most common complaint among dudes who can’t fit into super-skinny denim is the lack of room in the thigh and butt area, as well as the rise (the distance between your crotch seam and waistband). This selection should help alleviate these issues a bit.

This is probably a good time to mention:

Only in the market for one pair of jeans? Make it dark, unadorned, not distressed, inky dark blue denim. This is the only pair you really need.

Here are a couple choices from well-known, easy-to-find stores.

LEVI’S

514 Slim Straight

The go-to standard. Straight-leg fit all the way down the leg, finishes with a 17″ leg opening while maintaining a slim silhouette. Affordable and available in practically every color imaginable.

An alternative: 505 Straight Leg

This pair has a more relaxed fit (meaning more room in seat) with an 11″ rise and 16.5″ leg opening. It’s a straight leg, so there’s not much tapering and it’s definitely not a bootcut. I’ve heard there are variations of this model (as well as the ever-popular 501) depending on where you buy them (Macy’s, for example, vs. a Levi’s store).

GAP

Straight Fit Denim

A good option from Gap; this model sits low on the waist (but not crack-exposingly low like some other fits) and has a straight silhouette all the way through.

An alternative: Standard Fit Denim

Sits right below waist and has a similar straight leg through to the opening.

J.CREW

Straight Fit Denim

Sits right at your waist, so there’s less pulling as you sit. The hip and thigh area is roomy but still slim and the leg is straight. You won’t have to worry about your quads suffocating in these jeans.

An alternative: The vintage slim

This is the model I shop for at J.Crew. The 484 Slim is way too skinny for my body type, and the straight fit model may be a little looser than I prefer, but the vintage slim fits just right. It hits right below the waist and the fit stays slim at the hips, thighs, and all the way down the leg. This isn’t as slim-fitting as your typical skinny boy jean, but it does run a bit more slim than the straight fit.

Don’t forget

Denim will always fit people differently, every time. Even if you take two dudes with similar physiques, you’ll notice inconsistencies in fit. It has to do with how people wear their clothes, and the little measurement differences of each body.

It’s important to try on a bunch of sizes, even if you *think* you know your size. Reason being, all manufacturers size their goods a bit differently. Just because you’re a 32 waist in one brand won’t mean you’re a 32 in all, so head to the fitting room for crying out loud.

Our 5&B Event: A short reminder

Our event is a month away! Have you RSVP’d yet?.

If you don’t have a Facebook and you still want to attend, send an email to info[at]fifthandbrannan[dot]com, and we’ll make sure to get you on the list.

An aside: Apologies in advance if I don’t update EG as frequently over the next month. K and I have a lot of work to do in the final thirty days before our big launch, and I’m spending every free moment upgrading her site, building a new site for the Fifth&Brannan shop, running to meetings and visiting the factory, as well as tying up a whole bunch of loose ends. There’s a ton of exciting stuff on the horizon for us and we’re excited to share it with you, so bear with me, and stay tuned.

I’ll still be on Twitter though, so make sure to follow me there and say hi!

Let’s be honest here: some things are worth the price, while some could be skipped entirely. Here are some items you should spend a couple extra dollars on, and some others you can skimp on and still come out okay.

Splurge on these if you have the cash

Well-made shoes

You can find “dress shoes” practically anywhere (even Payless has stuff that can pass for decent “dress shoes”, or something that resembles a leather shoe), but there are vast differences between a pair that costs $39.99, $300, and $1600. And yes, there are shoes that cost $1600.

Where do the differences lie? Material (leather vs faux leather), quality of the material, the sole, construction, finishing, and so on. For a decent leather shoe, you’ll want to stick in the $200-$300 range and up. Alternatively, if you’re a slick bargain hunter, you can scour eBay or Style Forum for brands that typically sell models in that price range and buy them at a discount (albeit slightly used in most cases).

L-R: Double Monks, Antonio Maurizi; Burnished Brogue Boots, Harris; Green Double Monks, Bally

I found a pair of used Antonio Maurizi double monk straps in a tan leather for $120 online. These usually retail for $300. Granted, it took a while and I had to be patient in looking for that particular shoe, but if you have that kind of time you can find some great deals online.

I also have a pair of burnished brogue boots by Harris that my lovely girlfriend got me for Christmas. She found them on sale at Barney’s for $275, but their retail is around $600. Deals are plentiful for the patient shopper.

A classic watch

I can’t wait to amass a collection of watches like John Mayer, but until then, I’m setting my sights on an entry-level piece that’s classic and goes with everything.

I appreciate watches more than I do clothes, mostly because it’s a different ball game with a higher barrier to entry. Sure, you can buy a $500 pair of Alden shoes and learn their history, but to know and appreciate (and be able to afford) the mechanics of a tourbillon, for example, is something completely different.

As far as classic, entry-level watches, I’m thinking of pieces like the Cartier Santos, Rolex Air King, IWC Portofino, or the Tag Heuer Monaco. Sure, it’s good to have a Timex as your everyday watch, but as your disposable income grows, look into investing in one of these. Soon it will turn into your everyday watch, and maybe even become an heirloom you pass along to your kid one day. How cool would that be!?

A great suit

Just like shoes, there’s a big difference between a $200 H&M suit and a $6000 Ralph Lauren Purple Label suit. That’s a whole article within itself, but a lot of the differences lie in the construction and fabric alone. If you’re interested in details, check out my friend Antonio’s explanation here on Quora.

The price of the suit isn’t as important as the way it looks on you, so no matter the price, always take it to a tailor.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Assuming I was rolling in dough, however, I wouldn’t mind spending top dollar for a nicely made suit, crafted from some fine wool cashmere, like RLPL. Besides, if you DO have that kind of money, you’ll probably find yourself in a bunch of situations where suiting is necessary. That’s how I picture it, at least.

Save your money; don’t bother spending top dollar

T-shirts, socks, and underwear

I find it a little crazy that Calvin Klein sells ONE pair of boxer briefs for close to $30. Do they last five times longer than the Hanes boxer briefs that I get from Target? As far as I can tell, they’re pretty comparable, save for the branding on the waist band.

Same goes for socks. Paul Smith makes some wonderful socks, but they’re quite pricey. Happy Socks is a great alternative if you don’t want to spend $30 on a singular pair.

Tees as well. I’ve seen T-shirts for $50 and up… for a plain, white tee. Why?

Stick with the basic brands you see at Target, or a 3-pack you find on sale at Macy’s. You don’t need a $50 t-shirt. One brand I do like (that can be pricier than something you’d find at Target) is American Apparel. They have great-fitting tees in super soft jersey cotton.

Denim

I’ve mentioned this before, but I’ve never spent more than $50 on a pair of jeans. I stick with dark-wash, unadorned, straight leg denim from Levi’s. If you’re the John Mayer of jeans, and you’re all about the selvedge 20 oz Japanese cone mill blah blah blah that goes for $300+, I can respect that. For the everyman, however, try a pair of Levi’s 514 and see how you like those. Bird legs? Levi’s 511. Thighs bigger than your head? Levi’s 501xx Shrink to Fit. Boom. Done.

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So these are my thoughts on what I find acceptable to spend a little more coin on, and what I feel can be skipped.

Agree or disagree? Let’s hear it in the comments below.

Joe from Dappered (yesterday’s featured blog post author) asked me to write an article for Dappered.com. If you haven’t yet visited, you should get your butt over there right now. Joe puts out a bunch of great content on a daily basis, and if you need to up your style game without breaking the bank, Dappered will be your guiding light.

My article features three items I consider essential to any dude’s wardrobe. You can wear these every day, all the time… and rarely will you find yourself at an occasion where they aren’t appropriate (not including formal events like weddings and Bat Mitzvahs, of course.)

Check out my article on Dappered.com!

Hey Gents,

My good friend Joe of dappered.com is running quite a nice promotion in partnership with Indochino right now. If you need a suit and have been waiting to pull the trigger, I believe this will give you enough reason to fire.

Basically, you can get $100 off any suit priced at $349 or higher, by using coupon code Dappered.com at checkout. For full details, just visit the site here.

The best part? You’re getting a custom-made suit, fit to your specifications, for about the price of a suit you’d find at Macy’s. And even then, you’d have to take that to the tailor. Obviously if you’re buying a custom-tailored piece, you can skip that step.

You only have one week, as this promotion ends October 23rd.

So mull it over for like, two minutes, and then start the order process. It’s totally worth it for something that will fit you perfectly. This site stresses the importance of the perfect fit for your body type, and at this price, it’s practically a no-brainer.

Head on over to Dappered to get the full details.

Happy suiting!

I went to Target the other day to get my favorite “trail mix”. I say “trail mix” because trail mix implies a healthful snack, but nothing in this bag seems to denote healthy.

While browsing the aisles trying to remember what else I needed, I stumbled on this simple Timex for $24.99 (even though Target.com says $29.99). I couldn’t pass it up.

It has a clean white face, clearly-legible numbers, detachable leather straps, oh yeah, and it was twenty-five bucks. It does its job and looks handsome doing it.

I should mention I’ve been looking for a simple watch with a white face for a while now. I could’ve bought a Swiss Army Cavalry, or (for a little extra cash) there are a myriad of other options. In my opinion, however, the price-to-good-looks ratio of this Timex is unbeatable.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a lover of fine watches. I have aspirations of becoming a collector of complex movements and connoisseur of Swiss craftsmanship some day, and obviously this Timex can’t compare to the IWC or even the Seiko. Sometimes, though, you have to admire the beauty in simplicity and frugality, as well as the sheer genius of a technology like Indiglo™.

Green watch strap from J.Crew.

Hey Gents —

As Christmas day fades and 2010 approaches, one should take a moment to reflect on the past year and perhaps set goals for the upcoming one. Somewhere in there, how about setting a goal to update that wardrobe you might’ve been neglecting? You can’t sport those baggy, light washed jeans and blousy button-downs forever, and especially not when you’re in the midst of a new decade!

It’s obvious that with all this recession talk, people are still worried about money. Take a cue from GQ Magazine, and realize that you don’t have to spend a ton to look like a million bucks. Apply a little due diligence by getting online and checking out these retailers (Topman, J. Crew, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap, Club Monaco, French Connection) for some inspiration, as well as an opportunity to get some quality goods for not that much coin.

You’ll be surprised at the quality-to-price ratio of these pieces. Remember, you don’t have to dress head to toe like Mr. Gordon-Levitt. Simply take one or two elements and incorporate them into your everyday style, and make it your own.

Click here to read the original article.