I love the new year. I think of them like mile markers, helping me gauge what I’ve done versus what I had planned to do over the past twelve months.

Now that you’ve been along for the ride with us at EG, I encourage you to set some style goals for yourself as well. I’m sure most of you had goals you tried accomplishing this year, and there are probably some things you haven’t gotten to yet.

Things like finally clearing out your closet that’s stuffed with crap you no longer wear, or purchasing a navy suit so you can get your grown man on. Maybe there are some essential pieces you’ve been wanting to pick up but just haven’t yet.

Don’t worry, you’re not expected to do it all in one shot, so it’s okay if you haven’t even taken care of all the basics. In fact, I have some things I hope to take care of this year.

Here are a few of mine:

• Find an awesome gray wool puff vest for the colder months
• Pick up a gray flannel suit, two-button, single breasted, double vented
• Buy a few white / light blue oxfords (I’ll probably just snag a few of the new 5&B ones coming soon)
• Solidifying my personal uniform, something I’ve been working on for a while now
• and more, I’m sure, which I’ll figure out in the next week

What are yours?

Just like regular life goals, if you don’t commit to them in writing (or even better, in public) you’ll probably never get around to it.

I want to hear your style resolutions for the new year. What are you hoping to acquire? What changes are you looking to make?

Remember, establishing your personal style isn’t about picking the most expensive items, or having a warehouse-sized wardrobe to choose from every morning.

All you need are several key (interchangeable) pieces in your closet, mixed in with a few things you love that aren’t necessarily considered basic, but help to define your personal style.

Having trouble thinking of ideas? Check out Dappered.com’s suggestions from the beginning of 2011. This is a good place to start.

So let’s hear em below! Consider the comments section of this post a place to hold yourself publicly accountable. And if I can help in any way, let me know.

Till next time.

ps — you should join us on Facebook!

I recently started reading The Flinch, by Julien Smith. The basic idea is that we humans have this inclination to protect ourselves. This self-preservation, this flinch, is a defense mechanism meant to keep us alive and safe. It’s the flight in “fight or flight”.

The problem is that in our modern society, rarely are we humans put in a situation where we need to flinch. Rarely are we ever in THAT much danger, relatively speaking. We have longer lifespans, modern medicine, homes that shield us from the elements, the absence of dinosaurs and flesh-eating mammals roaming the streets.

Yet, we still flinch. We let these fears prevent us from doing awesome shit, making great change, and improving our lives.

That fear of speaking in public? Of doing a Skype call with someone you haven’t yet met? Of going up to unfamiliar yet attractive strangers in bars? Of losing weight? Of dropping bad habits?

That fear, that’s the flinch.

What does this have to do with personal style?

Glad you asked.

I get a lot of emails and comments that allude to this issue of insecurity. They say things like “I can’t dress like that with my group of friends,” or “Not sure what my girlfriend would think if I suddenly started wearing blazers and nice shoes.”

These comments are clear indicators of the fear in these gents’ minds when it comes to change… and this fear prevents great change from happening.

The flinch.

In reality though, if you REALLY think about it, what do you have to fear when trying to improve yourself? At the most, one or two jeers (from poorly-dressed peers, naturally), maybe a couple confused looks, some questions based on curiosity (“Whoa, when did you start dressing like that?”)… but I’m confident that if you keep at it, most of the reactions you receive will be positive, uplifting, and supportive.

The first step is pressing on despite any fears you might have.

Here are some common issues and internal questions that tend to come up

What will my friends / loved ones think?

You’re likely to encounter one of three reactions.

One: Negative, either of the “Eww, I don’t like your new look,” or “Who do you think you are?” variety.

I don’t understand either, particularly the latter. Since when is it bad to want to improve in every aspect of your life, especially the most outward-facing one, your appearance? And the former is usually said by people who have little or no knowledge of good style, so how much weight do their opinions really hold?

Two: Ambivalence, unsure of what to think or how to react. They’re not negative, but not necessarily positive either. These people will come around, if you keep evolving, learning, and doing your best.

Think about it. It’s a drastic change to go from ripped, faded jeans and dingy tees, to dark denim and button ups. People won’t know how to react when they see you. So those who are unsure but mostly okay with it will come around and turn into supporters eventually, trust me.

Three: Positive, the ones who are like “Hell yeah! you look great!” are the folks you want to keep around. Why? Well, for support, and because it’s good to keep positive peeps around you when you’re making an effort to do things differently.

Who gives a crap?

Side note: When I first started writing this, my first inclination was to proclaim, “Who gives a crap what people think? Even your closest loved ones? If they hate, then forget about em.”

I still believe this, don’t get me wrong. If they’re truly your friends or loved ones and care about you, they’d be supportive of you no matter what, especially if the changes you’re making in your life are for the better.

But, I know this is easier said than done; every situation is different, and dynamics can vary drastically. So the above is my more thought-out answer. If you’re more pragmatic and no-nonsense like me, you can go with the “Who gives a crap?” answer.

Can I really pull off a new look?

Dude, of course you can. The toughest thing to get over is that feeling of being overwhelmed.

Take your time; evolving your style and improving yourself isn’t a Sunday afternoon project, complete in a couple hours. It takes commitment, true interest, and the desire to learn and make changes where necessary.

It also takes an open mind, because a lot of the things you believed to be true about how to wear clothes will be challenged. More times than not, you’ll realize you were wrong all along.

I don’t know what I’m doing.

Good thing you found this site then, right? Like I just mentioned, self-improvement (not just in style, but in every aspect of your life) is a marathon and takes consistent action to see any results. Just keep learning and practicing and trying and doing. Ask lots of questions, make decisions, and figure out what you like.

There are too many options. How do I know where to start?

You’ll know where to start once you know where to start. That sounds super vague, but if you keep learning and reading and going to stores and trying stuff on, you’ll easily learn what fits and what doesn’t, what constitutes well-made versus shoddily constructed, etc.

I’ll tell you one thing, every man needs a great pair of denim.

Once you’re ready to start making some good purchases, make sure you consider these things.

There are too many options. Who do I listen to?

Well, me, for one. Though to be honest you’re doing yourself a great disservice by listening to me only. There are a bunch of great writers / bloggers who are super knowledgeable about men’s style, and you can learn a lot from each of them.

Here are some of my favorites, ranging from basic style advice to more advanced topics and ideas.

• Primer Magazine
• Dappered
• Real Men Real Style
• Art of Manliness
• Suits+Boots
• Ethan Desu
• Street Etiquette
• The Silentist
• This Fits
• Valet
• You Have Broken the Internet
• Die, Workwear!

Ultimately, you dress for you

Sure, part of your motivation to dress better is to impress so-and-so who’s caught your eye, or maybe because your significant other gives you dirty looks every time you leave the house and you’re starting to feel her deep, seething resentment.

Maybe mommy and daddy are treating you like a child still, and putting on a collared shirt and ironed chinos might get you more respect and adult-like treatment (you’re still five years old in their eyes, and probably always will be).

What it really comes down to is this: you need to dress better for YOUR own good.

If you’re in this deep, reading practically every article on this site, learning as much as you can about menswear, quality clothing, where to buy what, buying less but buying better, then your primary motivation should be to improve your life and style and appearance because YOU want to.

Impressing others and gaining approval as a source of motivation only lasts for so long. Eventually, that drive fades, or you lose interest in the other person, or you stop caring about what others think.

The only thing that will bring long-lasting change is the desire for constant self-improvement and the motivation to present yourself better.

Make sense?

What’s holding you back?

I’m sure a few of you can relate on some level. What are your hang-ups? What’s holding you back from experimenting or discovering your own personal style and taste?

Is it the feeling of overwhelm? Not knowing where to start? Not sure who to trust? Or maybe you just need more time to read, absorb, and learn?

Let’s hear it down below in the comments. I’m curious and maybe I can help.

ps — if you have a minute, please like Effortless Gent and Fifth&Brannan on Facebook, wouldja? You rock.

Hey gents,

I’m about to drop some knowledge on you in a minute. But first, I want to make sure I have your attention. Make sure to read through this whole article because at the very end, I’ll have a special surprise for you, but you’ll have to read through to find out!

—

For the uninitiated (read: those who aren’t avid readers of this site) “casual” typically equates to sloppy. Most of the time this isn’t intentional; I highly doubt anyone wakes up in the morning thinking “I’m gonna look my absolute shittiest today.”

The problem is, lots of guys don’t know what to put on when they’re not wearing their work uniforms, whether that be a suit and tie, or an orange vest and a hardhat.

Enter the idea of Refined Casual. There is no one type of casual outfit, just like there is no “going out” shirt, despite what most guys think.

I’m encouraging you to blur the lines a bit between dressy and casual. When you have a more refined casual look, you’ll never find yourself completely under or overdressed in any situation you find yourself in.

What does this mean exactly?

Step away from t-shirts on your off days, and throw on a button-up sport shirt. Try a fitted crewneck sweater instead of your typical hoodie. Put on a great pair of chinos instead of your ripped, faded denim.

What better way to illustrate this point than with visuals? Below are three outfits I put together. Study them not as absolutes you should memorize and mimic exactly, but rather use them as references on how to pair color and texture together, and more importantly, how to willingly stray away from your usual casual choices.

Each of these examples feature Bonobos’ Game Day Chinos, some of my favorite out right now. They have great colors available and the fit is perfect. Definitely worth checking out if you’re in the market for new pants.

Take a look at the Game Day Chinos here (opens in a new tab).

Game Day Chinos in red, Resin tailored shirt from Gap, Half-zip lambswool sweater from J.Crew, Navy Bayswater pea coat from J.Crew, Earthkeeper boots from Timberland, Golden / Brass leather belt from Tanner Goods

Game Day Chinos in Petrol Blue from Bonobos, White all-rounder oxford shirt from Bonobos, Millerain waxed cotton field jacket from J.Crew, Red Oak leather desert boot from Clarks, Heritage tan / black leather belt from Tanner Goods

Game Day Chinos in Surplus from Bonobos, Brushed flannel work shirt from Lands’ End Canvas, Waxed cotton field jacket from Lands’ End Canvas, Suede chukka boot from Quoddy, Mahogany / nickel leather belt from Tanner Goods

Lucky for you, since you’re an EG reader, you can get 20% off with the code “effortlessgent”, just use it at checkout. Not bad, right? Check out the chinos here.

What did you score today?

I’m sure you saw my last article about Bonobos’ ridiculous Cyber Monday sale. Well, that’s going on right now, so make sure you check that out and pick up some great stuff at a crazy amazing discount. In case you’re wondering, nope, the effortlessgent code won’t work on Cyber Monday purchases, but you won’t even need it anyway. The deals will be that awesome.

You’re not too late, go check out the cyber monday specials on bonobos.com now.

Aaaand now, the surprise!

  This contest has already ended. Thanks for entering!   

The good folks at Bonobos knew I loved their Game Day Chinos, and when I told them I was going to feature them in an article, they were gracious enough to throw in a pair for free to one lucky winner.

Nice!

So here’s what you gotta do to win a pair of Game Day Chinos. In the comments below, let’s hear your BEST pick-up line, ever. Make it good! And make it count.

Pretty simple, right? Last day to enter is this Friday, December 2, at 11:59pm Pacific.

I’m looking forward to hearing your best pick-up lines… this should be interesting.

Oh, and if you have any thoughts / questions on “refined casual”, leave em in the comments as well.

Good luck!

Hey gents,

How many times have you stumbled upon a sweet deal online but never completed the purchase because you couldn’t figure out if the last one in your size would actually fit (and there were no returns, no exchanges)?

Or have you ever found the perfect sport coat on eBay or Style Forum, but it didn’t have size tags and the seller simply listed the measurements?

I mean, what the heck are you supposed to do with that, right?

Am I right?!

Well, let’s make sure this never happens to you again. Here’s the ONE tool you need to solve all your online shopping woes:

Tailor’s tape!

Lucky for you, you can find it on Amazon, in practically any big box store (Target, Walmart, Kmart), or in an arts and crafts store in your neighborhood, and it’ll cost you a few dollars at most.

How is tailor’s tape going to solve all my online shopping woes?

This little tool can measure every single square inch of that hot bod of yours. And those measurements are exactly what you need to make those confusing online purchases much easier.

I don’t want to measure every square inch of my body.

Okay, fine. I was over-exaggerating anyway. You really only need 6, maybe 7, measurements. That’s it! With those 6 (or 7) measurements, you can buy any garment anywhere without having to try it on. Pretty nifty, right?

So what parts of my body should I measure?

Good question. To make it easy, why not take a look at this handy dandy diagram below:

Here are some descriptive definitions for the more confusing ones:

Sleeve length: Measure from the base of the neck, across the traps to the shoulder, down the arm, to your wrist bone.

Chest: Measure the widest part of your chest, usually across the nipples (ooh la la).

Natural waist: Your natural waist is generally where your torso bends if you were to stand straight with your legs shoulder width apart, and tipped over slightly to one side. That crease sorta in the middle of your ribs? That’s your natural waist.

Hip: Where your pants typically sit. If you finger that area (wow, really?) you can feel your hip bone. Your tape should come right across there, parallel to the ground.

Inseam: Measure from the inside of your thigh (this is too much) to the heel.

These are the only measurements you’ll need.

Some tips on getting an accurate measurement

This is a little difficult to do if you’re on your own, unless you have something like this. If you’re not as fancy and you picked up traditional tailor’s tape, better get your patient significant other to help you out.

Keep the tape straight

It’s really important to make sure the tape is level as your S.O. is wrapping it around your body parts (whoa). If it isn’t straight, chances are you’ll get a skewed measurement. An inch can make a big difference in the fit of your clothes, so make sure your designated measurer is as precise as possible. If you’re measuring your chest, waist, or hips, the tape should be parallel to the ground.

Too loose = bad

You want to feel the tape wrapped around you. If it’s too loose, most likely it’s also not straight, so you’re going to get an inaccurate measurement no matter what.

Too tight = bad

Yes, you want to feel the tape wrapped around you, but you don’t want to cinch it so snugly that your spare tire is cascading over it, enveloping the tape in a wall of skin and lard like some weird 80s horror film. Keep it firm, but not tight.

Line it up

Hold one end, wrap the tape around your body, hold it firm, and match up the free end to the nearest line on the tape, like so:

Pretty simple, right? You want to do this for each of the areas listed in my handy dandy diagram above.

Half or full?

Some places give you measurements that look peculiarly small. For example, you may see a garment listed as having a 20″ chest measurement. Well that just means they measured across the chest without doubling the measurement. So your 40″ chest is 40″ because you went all the way around your body.

While you’re at it, measure your clothes

Let’s say you have a blazer that fits you perfectly. Take the jacket’s measurements. This will come in handy when you’re looking to buy suiting online.

Measuring a garment is similar to measuring your body, but easier. You’re essentially taking the same measurements you would on yourself. Lay your garment on a flat surface, and follow this measuring guide we use on the Fifth&Brannan size chart page:

(need the full size version? click here.)

BOOM! You’re equipped.

Make sure to keep these numbers on a Post-it and stick it in your wallet for quick reference, and shop online with confidence, armed with the knowledge of your own measurements.

Feels good, doesn’t it?

Questions?

I’m here to help. Leave em in the comments below!

photo, photo

I’m about to make the most obvious statement I’ve ever made on EG. Ready? Here we go: Women dress really well, usually better than we do.

And as men dedicated to constantly improving our everyday style, it will benefit us to check these ladies out. Not creepily or stalkery of course (please, be discreet with your observations), but slyly, with a thirst for knowledge and a desire to learn! Right? Are you with me?!

Seriously, there is a ton to learn when you're checking out the right women... lessons that are immediately applicable to your own wardrobe, style, and swagger. Now more than ever—especially with the 'women-in-menswear-silhouettes' trend going on—the ladies are putting together texture, color, and pieces most guys wouldn't think to do.

Anyway, enough talk. Take a look at these ladies. What can you pick up just by studying the above photos?

Proportion and fit

A lot of guys still don't have their proportions down. Your clothing shouldn't swallow you. Your pants shouldn't pool at your ankles, and your shirts shouldn't billow in the wind. They also shouldn't be skin tight, exposing every gap in your rib cage or fat roll on your torso.

When you master proportion and fit, clothing will complement your body and accentuate your physique. Yes, even you bigger dudes can find clothes that fit. Wearing oversized clothes won't mask your size, it will make you look that much bigger.

Color

Be brave with color! Lots of guys stick to dark hues, or predictable combos they're comfortable with. This very phenomenon is what inspires us at Fifth&Brannan, where our philosophy is that there's more to life than black and blue.

Maybe you're afraid of not matching, or you don't know what colors complement each other. Maybe you think excessive color is too flashy or preppy. Get over it!

Injecting unexpected color into your everyday wardrobe keeps things interesting. If you don't know what you're doing, learn what to do… the internet makes it easy. If you hop on Tumblr, you will find a plethora of photos featuring dudes and chicks doing it right.

Lastly, not sure what looks best with your skin color? There's a Back to Basics feature that addresses your predicament.

Texture and print

These women use texture and print to add an extra dimension of interest to their outfits. Sure, you can buy a bunch of solid-colored clothing and be just fine, but this site is about looking your best on your own terms, doing the best you can with what you have. And you certainly have the aspirations and the means, so start experimenting!

There are so many wonderful fabrics with great texture (tweed, cashmere, fine merino wool, heavyweight denim) and handsome patterns (glen plaid, herringbone, gingham, houndstooth) out there. The list goes on and on. Read up and learn about them!

Or better yet, find some pieces with characteristics you like (regardless of whether or not you know what it is, but bonus points if you take the time to learn) and start incorporating them into your outfit.

Layering

A lady that knows layering. Bee from Atlantic-Pacific

It's the best time to experiment with layering when the weather turns chilly, though this can apply to practically any climate you live in. The idea is that you want to start with your thinnest (innermost) layer, working up to your heaviest (outermost).

So, for example, you may start with a lightweight v-neck shirt under a cotton button-down dress shirt, under a merino wool crewneck sweater, under a wool blazer. Make sense?

The benefit to layering is two-fold. Not only are you creating an overall look that is more interesting (which increases with the strategic use of color and pattern), but you're also allowing yourself to remain adaptable to any environment. If it's freezing out, you're covered, and once you reach your destination, you can always shed a layer or two if it gets too warm.

If you're in a tropical climate like Miami, you can still benefit by layering (though your layers would probably be much lighter). Let's say you wear a lightweight v-neck under your cotton button-down, and carry a light linen/cotton sweater with you.

You'll be cool enough to walk the streets in that sweltering, oppressive heat, and if the destination you end up in is pumping out the A/C too hard, you can throw on that sweater. Not to mention, the v-neck will help capture any sweat so your button-down doesn't get soaked.

Simple, right?

Learn from the ladies

Hopefully I've given you fellas a few more reasons to pay attention to the well-dressed women in your lives (and on your computer monitors). Sometimes inspiration comes from an unlikely place, so don't be afraid to turn to the fairer sex when you're trying to decide how to look your best in the morning.

Let's hear from you peeps

Agree? Disagree? Think it's crazy to look to women for style inspiration? Think it makes perfect sense? Curious to hear your thoughts (especially if there are any female readers out there). Leave em in the comments below!

Picture credits from top to bottom, left to right:  J.Crew x2, Lands' End Canvas x2, Creme Fraiche x2, Sorakeem, theamericanlegacy, Atlantic-Pacific

The other night, the girlfriend and I caught a late showing of Crazy, Stupid, Love. Steve Carrell’s character, Cal, is a middle-aged, soon-to-be divorcé who, in an attempt to pick himself up after days of self-loathing and pity, becomes inspired and then coached by a younger, smoother-talking, swaggerific Jacob (played by Ryan Gosling), and ultimately reinvents himself.

There was a montage during Cal’s reinvention that displayed him in some pretty impressive outfits for a guy his age and in his situation. This made me realize that guys, no matter their age, have no excuse for not dressing well. The movie is a great example of how the classic rules of clothing apply to any age group and never go out of style.

Most men ages 40 and up seem to fall into one of these three categories: 1.) they really get what they’re doing, 2.) they’re stuck in some previous decade they enjoyed most, or 3.) they stop caring completely.

Ironically, lots of men in this age group also have the level of success their younger counterparts are striving for, and most are comfortable in their own skin, which I assume comes with over four decades living on earth.

So for you older gents who are realizing you need to present yourself better, why not follow in the footsteps of our friend Cal?

Fit and proportion is still as important as always

I see lots of older dudes wearing really, really snug clothing, like they stopped buying clothes 15 years ago but their waistlines continued to expand. Or they wear really big clothes, often under the assumption it’s more comfortable.

Well-fitting clothing doesn’t translate to uncomfortable, and whether you’re skinny, overweight, or just right, you need to buy clothes that fit your proportions.

Stop lying to yourself. If you no longer fit into the pants you did five years ago, go buy a bigger size (or better yet, start exercising again). If it’s been a while since you’ve tried fitting yourself for clothing, go to a higher-end department store and ask for help from a knowledgeable salesman. That’s their job, after all, to assist you in getting this stuff right.

Alternatively, go to a store yourself and start trying on clothing. Grab several sizes in the same style, and see what fits best.

There are alternatives to the Dad jean

More like Gosling, less like Carrell

What defines a Dad jean? Well, the pair Cal is wearing in the picture to the right is a good visual represntation. Overly-washed light blue denim or “WalMart blue” denim, unnecessarily high rise, wide throughout the thigh and calf, and sometimes even a short inseam, causing unintentional flooding.

Levi’s 501 or 505 is a good standard for denim. If you find yourself in Dad jeans, please do the world a favor and go to Macy’s (or Sears, even) and pick up a pair. Denim enthusiasts will argue that Levi’s at Sears differ greatly from those at Macy’s, which differ from the ones at Urban Outfitters, which differ from the pairs at the Levi’s stores themselves.

Don’t concern yourself with that right now; you have bigger problems. Just snag a pair of 501s and move on with your life. Oh, and make sure they’re inky blue, unwashed, non-distressed denim. This will be your everyday pair.

Once you’ve scored yourself a new pair of well-fitting, non-Dad jeans, don’t just wash them like any old pair. Wash them separately or with other dark-colored clothing, and use Woolite Black to resist fading. Hang dry to avoid shrinking.

Better yet, don’t wash them until they’re visibly soiled or smell so bad your dog is offended. Seriously. Non-distressed denim tends to form to the contours of your body, so they feel more and more comfortable with each wear. Washing them is like hitting the reset button.

Shoes matter

Barring any medical complications, pay attention to your footwear. Don’t walk around in public wearing beat up Asics or Costco’s Court Classics tennis shoes. You’re a grown, established man.

Find a good pair of brogues; my favorites are the Florsheim Veblen. They’ll look great with your non-Dad denim.

Other alternatives? Tan Sperry Top Siders are classics and go with everything. So do Clarks desert boots.

If you’re a sneaker guy, go with something unadorned and simplistic, like a pair of low-top Jack Purcell Converse or Tretorn.

Stay away from anything designed for sports use (basketball shoes, running shoes, cross trainers)… those are only fine when you’re actually participating in said sporty activity.

Getting older doesn’t mean you should stop caring

Maybe you’re married and have kids, or you’re in a committed relationship, so you’re not on the hunt for hot chicks anymore. Perhaps you’re no longer trying to impress the dudes in your gang with your cool threads. Regardless, you should still be trying for your own sake. You’re a man! When you’re out in the wild, present yourself with some respect.

Dressing well isn’t just about vanity (at least not completely). Dressing well is about self-respect, self-worth, being proud of yourself, presenting yourself in an appropriate manner to those around you. It’s about feeling good and holding your head up high. Can you do that in a ratty tee from 1987, or your college-aged son’s old high-school clothes he no longer wears? No, you can’t.

Style isn’t about spending gobs of cash on the latest and greatest things from the runway, or about having a guest bedroom double as your personal walk-in closet. You don’t have to have thousands of pieces in your wardrobe. You only need a few pieces flexible enough that they can easily be worn with each other.

Not sure where to start? Work on this list:

1. 1 pair inky dark blue denim, unadorned, plain, non-distressed, unwashed (have I mentioned this enough?)
2. 1 pair tailored navy trousers
3. 1 white oxford cloth button-up / poplin button-up
4. 1 light blue or lavender oxford cloth button-up / poplin button-up
5. 1 navy blazer (gold buttons optional, vents + great fit + tailoring mandatory)
6. 1 casual two-button khaki sport coat
7. 1 charcoal gray 2 button wool suit (vents + tailoring mandatory)
8. 1 pair of brown leather lace ups (rounded toe, slim leather sole)
9. 1 pair of black leather lace ups (same)
10. assortment of dress socks (be daring and experimental with color)
11. 3-5 heather gray v-necks
12. boxer briefs (or briefs, but no regular boxers… too much material underneath your pants)

Don’t be scared to layer

Layering can add layers (clever word play! not really) of visual interest to your outfit. Another benefit? You can control your bodily temperature in gradual steps.

Let’s say you’re a month or two into the Autumn season, and you have an undershirt (hopefully a gray v-neck) over a button-up dress shirt, and then a thin merino wool sweater, and then a blazer as your outermost layer. Getting warm? Peel off a layer. Still hot? Peel off another. Starting to get chilly? Throw that layer back on.

How would you do that if you wore, say, a T-shirt underneath a winter parka? You’re either sweating in your parka, or freezing in a T-shirt. Layers are key.

These ideas apply to every man, young and old

If you’re insightful, you may have realized this. Doesn’t matter if you’re an 18-year-old high school grad coming into your own sense of style, or you’re 62 and running around the park with your grandkids… these basics can be applied in any situation.

What do you think?

Have you seen Crazy, Stupid, Love? What do you think about Cal’s new sense of style?

What other basic rules (that apply to any age) did I miss? Am I forgetting any must-haves in that starter list above? Let’s hear your thoughts below in the comments.

All this talk about a man’s essential wardrobe and what real, down-to-earth guys need in their closets can be a little overwhelming for most dudes. You know why? Most of us don’t like shopping. Sure, there are a small subset of us who do, but in general, dudes don’t want to do it.

So, let’s just say you only make one single purchase all year. Just ONE singular item. What should that thing be?

Roy Denim, Oakland, CA

A pair of dark denim. Straight leg, well fitting, un-whiskered, non-faded, dark wash denim.

If you STILL don’t have a pair of dark, inky blue denim with no pre-fabricated creasing or faded wash, shame on you! If you’re curious, this is one of the pairs I have (and the kind I’m suggesting you pick up).

Why is it so important for every guy to have at least one pair?

1.) It’s the ultimate in versatility

You can wear it in almost any social situation. Going grocery shopping? throw on a polo and some desert boots, and BAM, perfect casual grocery-shopping outfit. Heading to a nice bar with the lady friend? Add a pressed button up, a sport coat, and some brogues, and you’re good!

2.) You look like a grown-up

Faded washes, whiskering, and that whole pre-worn style is really young looking. It’s very American Eagle. Dark denim just takes your whole outfit up ten notches, especially when you pick the right fit.

3.) You avoid the dad jeans look

Sure, this has a lot to do with fit as well, but that light wash color just screams Dad Jeans. Or it screams high school, if you go the other extreme, fit wise (tight and super skinny). With dark denim, you don’t have to worry about that (to the right).

4.) They look great dressed up

Touched upon this in #1, but dark denim is a great substitute for trousers. You can look really sharp in a well-fitting pair. In fact, it’s become sort of my default if I need to get dressed quickly and nicely. I throw on a Fifth&Brannan button-up, sport coat, sometimes a tie, a great pair of shoes, and I’m out the door in like 12 minutes.

5.) They’re available at a variety of price points

So really, you have no excuse. If you go the selvedge route, you will be shopping at a higher price point, but you don’t have to buy selvedge to score a great pair in the same wash. Check out Levi’s, J.Crew, or Lands’ End Canvas (resin rinse) for some options at various price points.

How to pick and take care of your dark wash denim (and other things to remember)

Basic rule, aka The best rule to follow

Wear it a lot, and barely wash it. The denim stays dark and conforms nicely to your body. Wash it only when you absolutely must (rolling through mud, getting stuck in a port-a-potty that was thrown down a hill, after eating a lot of beans, etc).

Mind the rise

This is a fit issue, and you should pay attention to this no matter what kind of bottoms you’re buying. I touched upon rise in this article (Fit > pants). If you have other questions about this, feel free to ask in the comments.

Consider leg and seat room

You want to make sure you pick a slim (not skinny) pair. For a lot of you bootcut-wearers, you’re gonna think a straight leg pair feels like spandex around your calves, but trust me, straight leg looks better. Wear em for a while and eventually you’ll get used to them (and good Lord, get rid of your bootcuts).

You want the seat of your pants to hug your ass gently and lovingly, but not squeeze it to where it looks like your butt’s suffocating. Check out the Bonobos image in the left sidebar, that’ll give you a good idea of how your pants should fit in the seat.

You’re gonna crock

Crocking refers to the dye rubbing off on lighter-colored fabric. It happens, and it happens a lot. So before you hop into your Ferrari with the cream-colored seats, make sure you lay down a towel so you don’t stain the hand-stitched leather.

Or, more realistically, if you’re wearing light-colored canvas shoes or desert boots, better cuff em up once or twice, so the dye doesn’t transfer.

Bottom line

This weekend, pick up a pair of dark denim. It will change your life and grow up your style by at LEAST 6700%.

I know there are a bunch of you denim connoisseurs out there. What can you teach the class about picking the right fit / type of dark denim? Let’s hear your opinions in the comments below.

I’m in such a giving mood lately, have you noticed?

Actually, I’ve just been presented with some cool offers lately, and I love passing them on to you guys. Speaking of, have you entered the Primer Magazine / Hlaska briefcase giveaway yet (ends Aug 3rd)? If not, you should. Great bag, Hlaska’s a cool company, and Primer’s a great magazine! And who knows, you might get lucky, just like Andrew R. did the other day.

So I was talking to my friends at Bonobos recently, and I must’ve wooed them with my sweet talk and overly good looks, because at the end of the conversation they were all like, “Dude, let’s hook your readerz up with 20% off at bonobos.com!“

And you know I was all like, “Hellz yea, fo sho, dawgz!!!1!111!1″

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Well, it went something like that. Close enough, anyway.

Even though I may be dreaming about that exchange, the Bonobos deal is no dream! Our good friends over there are hooking up my awesome readers and EG loyalists with 20% off at bonobos.com.

Are you thinking to yourself, “But B, I don’t need more pants.”?

Dude, have you been to Bonobos lately? They stopped selling just pants long ago. What is this, 2008? Andy Dunn no longer slangs product from his trunk anymore. Bonobos is an awesome men’s store with tons of selection; I’m sure you’ll find something amazing for a great price.

In case you were wondering, my favorite so far is probably their straight-leg washed chinos (32×30, in case someone out there wants to throw a pair in their shopping cart for me :] )

Take advantage of 20% off at Bonobos today by entering “effortlessgent” (sans quotes) at checkout.

Happy shopping, gents!

Last week, 60 of you entered our joint giveaway with Ratio Clothing for a custom dress shirt. Eric and I fielded all your answers and many of you had some great ones! It was very hard deciding the winner.

After much deliberation, we decided to go the random route, and turns out Andrew Rasner is our big winner! Congrats, buddy. Here’s his comment:

Wow–nice company, thanks for introducing them. Something like this may just convince me to make the jump to MTM shirting, something I’ve always been on the fence about. Now, to my ideal collared top.

For an piece like this, I’d want something really classic and versatile. I love the texture of oxford cloth–and what’s more classic than a blue oxford? As far as the cuff goes, I love the no-nonsense nature of a barrel cuff. Although, I do prefer a cornered barrel cuff to a rounded one (wonder if Ratio would do that upon request . . . hmm). No pleats in the back, but I would like a pocket (I’m an architecture student–having a pen at hand is pretty much a necessity–and besides, you can’t even see the pocket under a sportcoat). As far as the collar, I find the the semi-spread ideal, and the standard placket is just fine (again, I know the seamless is dressier, but you can’t see it under a tie–and for casual occasions, the standard looks much better). Ratio slim fit, and “short” length so that it can be worn untucked with shorts during these summer months!

Where would I wear it? Ah, the possibilities. The shirt I just described is pretty versatile. I have a semester in Europe approaching ever faster, and I’m trying to acquire a flexible and dapper wardrobe to drag around with me–so a shirt like this would be absolutely wonderful. But first, it’d be worn to a Death Cab for Cutie concert in a few weeks, with the company of chino shorts, web belt, and boat shoes. Then, changing pace, it’d find itself under a chino sportcoat for an evening on the town with my lovely girlfriend.

On a side note, sincere thanks for providing these types of opportunities–an intro to a great brand, and a chance for a free bespoke shirt! Now that’s an awesome blog post.

Awesome! Enjoy your shirt, and I hope we get to see some photos once you receive it.

Didn’t win?

Don’t worry. We’ll do another giveaway again. Maybe we’ll do a Fifth&Brannan giveaway sometime soon… who knows.

Still want to win stuff?

Maybe you’re on a giveaway-entering spree, and you feel your luck hasn’t run out quite yet. Well, why not head over to Primer Magazine and check out the giveaway they’re doing with Hlaska. It’s an awesome briefcase made by a great company, and I wish I could enter myself, but I’m probably disqualified. Damn.

Thanks everyone for entering! The giveaway has ended. We’ll be announcing the winner next week.

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Clearly, custom dress shirts are a big thing. When one realizes style is more about fit and personality than it is about trend chasing and brand names, custom-tailored pieces represent the epitome of style.

Unfortunately ANYTHING custom can be expensive… Until recently, at least.

The interwebz bring great opportunity to those looking for custom-fitted clothing at a price that doesn’t require you to sell a spleen or your first-born in order to afford.

Eric of Ratio Clothing, a company that makes custom dress shirts for men, first approached me and offered me the chance to try out his unique ordering process. In the end, I’d have a custom shirt and the chance to review the whole experience here on EG.

Usually I say no to these offers right away because 1.) I get way too many emails asking for reviews in exchange for products, and I don’t have time to do all that, and 2.) I don’t ever want to seem biased or in favor of a product just because I got some free shit. Since I realized #2, I now only mention products I’ve used and loved, or use regularly anyway.

Here’s where Ratio Clothing got my attention

Most custom-fit clothing companies base their fit on the measurements you provide, but there is room for error. What if you measure incorrectly, or are measuring in the wrong spot? What if you don’t have a roommate or a lady friend or a really talented dog to help you measure your body parts? What if you’re just straight up LAZY to go through the measurement process?

Well, the chances of ordering an ill-fitting shirt increase.

Ratio Clothing works on this idea of ratio sizing. Instead of having to pull out tailor’s tape and figure out your body’s measurements, you can order a shirt from Ratio using their five distinct sizing variables.

Here it is, direct from their site:

5 Distinct Sizing Variables – It’s simply impossible to get something to truly fit when limited to the two variables that most big clothing companies use (neck and sleeve length). Ratio Sizing uses five for a precise fit:

• Chest – determined by suit jacket size
• Shirt Length – determined by suit jacket length
• Neck – determined by the typical dress shirt size
• Sleeve Length – determined by the typical dress shirt size
• Fit – Two great fit options, our signature Ratio Slim Fit and our Classic Fit

Easy, right? (Wait. Are you still, like, totally thrown off? Here are a couple more tips.)

Where are the shirts made?

Another thing I love about Ratio is that they keep all production in the US. How cool is that? Someone in the good ol’ US of A will sew your custom dress shirt once you place your order. Check out the full details right here.

I asked Eric a bit about his factory, and though I can’t say specifics, I can tell you that you’ll be getting a custom-fit shirt made by people who’ve been doing this very thing for decades. If they’ve been doing it for decades, then they must know what they’re doing, and they must be doing it well.

Why I passed up the opportunity…

Anyway, as tempting as it was to try out Ratio’s fit + ordering process and enjoy a brand new custom-fitting shirt, I decided to pass on the opportunity to you, my super awesome readers.

Why? I dunno, because I’m awesome, probably.

“How do we enter to win?”

Easy! Just do these two (or three) things.

1. If you haven’t already, Like Effortless Gent and Ratio Clothing on Facebook (extra incentive: you get 25% off your next Ratio purchase if you Like their page)
2. Leave a comment below and describe your ideal shirt. Not sure where to start? Try this: What kind of collar? Cuffs? What about type of fabric? Color? Do you like having a breast pocket? What about a split yoke? If you’re having trouble imagining, check out the shirts at Ratio Clothing’s site
3. Bonus points: Tell us the first place you plan on wearing your snazzy new dress shirt. Hot date? Job promotion? Crazy weekend in Vegas? Nephew’s sixth grade graduation?

That’s it! We will choose our favorite answer on Wednesday, July 20, THURSDAY, JULY 21 (we extended the end date!) at 11:59pm Pacific. Make sure to leave your name and email in the appropriate fields in the comment box below so we can reach you.

We will announce the winner on EG next week!

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Also, be sure to follow EG on Twitter and Ratio on Facebook.

Good luck!